L’inspiration de Manish Arora pour la collection printemps – été 2019 vient des stades, et particulièrement du Mondial en Russie, remporté par les français,

où les supporters ont rivalisé d’audace et d’inventivité dans leurs tenues vestimentaires et leurs maquillages. Le grand couturier a passé, dans la foulée, un accord le Paris-Saint-Germain pour représenter ses stars, Neymar, Mbappé et Thiago Silva notamment, en icones sur les T-shirts et les bombers, la chanson :« Girls just wanna have fun » (Les Filles veulent juste s’amuser) de Cindy Lauper servant de devise.

Les bleus, blancs, rouges s’incrustent subtilement dans les motifs géométriques. Le logo du club niche sur les chaussettes bariolées, les bottines de rose flashy, Les femmes imprègnent le football d’élégance, de charme et de coquetterie festive. Explosion des couleurs, des bijoux, des fantaisies décoratives.

Le sport se sensualise. Le kitch et l’extravagance remettent au goût du jour l’imagination pétulante et l’esthétique baroque. Baskets fluos à talons et sur semelles compensées, socquettes aux géométries contrastées, sacs à main ballons et têtes de léopards, munies d’yeux lanceurs de rayons laser, textures phosphorescentes, breloques et fanfreluches fluorescentes, la féérie carnavalesque fait irruption sur les podiums.

Les robes et les parures précieuses se retrouvent rehaussées de luminescences magiques, dans une belle harmonie de formes ethniques. Les ceintures et les écharpes emmitouflent la taille et le cou dans des martingales serpentines. Les arabesques, les chamarrures, les fioritures déclinent leur sémantique diablotine. Les nacres Les cœurs s’étincellent dans les étoiles.

La diversité culturelle fusionne dans les innovations technologiques. Pour Manish Arora, la mode est une fête planétaire, pétillante de bonne humeur contagieuse, croustillante d’imprévisibilités malicieuses, foisonnante de symboliques africaines, indiennes, égyptiennes, gitanes, nippones. Une douce folie psychédélique, intemporelle, où les traditions ludiques épousent les utopies nordiques.
Une esthétique de l’allégresse hantée par les gazelles et les tigresses surgies des mémoires argileuses en attendant avec impatience le prochain spectacle.



(c) Marie Goujon
Remerciements Elisabeth Bouillot & Mustapha Saha.
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