Jean Paul Gaultier

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Jean Paul Gaultier, né le 24 avril 1952 à Bagneux, est un styliste et grand couturier français, fondateur de l’entreprise qui porte son nom, ainsi qu’un créateur de parfums.

Après de nombreuses expériences dans les maisons de Pierre Cardin, Jacques Esterel, Jean Patou puis de nouveau Pierre Cardin durant les années 1970, il lance sa première collection sous son nom. Si elle retient l’attention, faite de tout et de rien celle-ci est un échec commercial. Mais le groupe japonais Kashiyama lui offre un soutien financier et Jean Paul Gaultier renoue avec le succès. Dans les années 1980, figure majeure de cette vague de jeunes créateurs qui révolutionnent la mode, il devient incontournable. Ses défilés spectaculaires, les uns après les autres, renversent les conventions du vêtement. Durant ces années, par le contre-pied qui caractérise souvent ses réalisations, il habille les hommes en femmes, bouscule le mouvement gay, fait défiler des « mannequins » qu’il croise dans la rue, habille les femmes de corsets… Grand professionnel de la coupe et maîtrisant les classiques de la Couture, créatif et pas uniquement provocateur, ses collections mêlent aussi parfois l’humour et les détournements. La marinière, l’un de ses symboles, est présente dès 1983 lors de sa première collection homme, la première jupe pour homme deux ans plus tard.

Dans les années 1990, Jean Paul Gaultier Parfums voit le jour ; c’est également à cette époque que Madonnaporte le célèbre bustier à bonnets coniques. Alors que la génération de créateurs des années 1980 refusait le conformisme de la haute couture incarné à l’époque par Yves Saint Laurent ou Carven, Jean Paul Gaultier présente — avec succès — sa première collection sous cette appellation en 1997. Il est récompensé peu après par le CFDA. En 2004, Jean Paul Gaultier mène, en parallèle des activités à son nom, la création du prêt-à-porter chez Hermès durant six ans. Il lance également au cours des années des lignes complémentaires tel que Junior Gaultier, Gaultier Jean, JPG, ou la ligne unisexe Gaultier², ainsi qu’une luxueuse collection de lingerie avec le fabricant italien La Perla.

S’il est fréquemment surnommé de façon réductrice « l’enfant terrible de la mode » par les médias, Jean Paul Gaultier, grand couturier, avec sa traditionnelle coiffure en brosse, est considéré mondialement comme un symbole de la culture française, et est devenu une icône de la mode.

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