Givenchy

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Givenchy, qui était au départ une maison de haute couture créée par Hubert de Givenchy en 1952, est devenue une marque de luxe : couture, parfumsprêt-à-portermaroquineriebijoux, etc. Rattaché au groupe LVMH depuis 1988, Givenchy est une des marques phares du nouveau luxe contemporain. Son activité se développe autour de deux métiers : la mode et les parfums et cosmétiques avec les Parfums Givenchy.

En 1952, Hubert de Givenchy quitte Schiaparelli et fonde sa maison de couture avec le financement de Louis Fontaine, son beau-frère, propriétaire de Prisunic1. Il lance les « séparables », jupes légères et blouses bouffantes en coton brut2.

Givenchy accède à la notoriété grâce à une collection que Vogue qualifiera de « magnifique première collection »3 et dont la pièce maîtresse est la « Blouse Bettina », un chemisier blanc nommé en l’honneur de Bettina et immortalisé par un dessin de René Gruau. Les mannequins stars Suzy Parker, sa sœur Dorian LeighIvy NicholsonSophie Litvak font partie de ce premier défilé.

En 1954, Hubert de Givenchy présente la première robe-chemise (qui évoluera en robe-sac en 1957). Il est l’un des premiers couturiers, en même temps que Jacques Fath ou Jean Dessès l’année suivante, à proposer une ligne de prêt-à-porter de luxe, « Givenchy Université », fabriquée à Paris sur des machines importées des États-Unis4. Avant de pouvoir signer cette nouvelle ligne, Hubert de Givenchy rachète l’intégralité du capital de sa maison de couture à Louis Fontaine.

Années 1950 : la complicité de Cristóbal Balenciaga et Hubert de Givenchy[modifier | modifier le code]

En 1956, Balenciaga et Givenchy présentent chacun leur collection à New York dans le cadre d’une soirée caritative au profit de l’hôpital américain de Paris3. L’année suivante, la maison Givenchy présente pour la première fois la « robe-sac ». En 1958, Hubert de Givenchy lance la ligne « Baby Doll » ainsi que les « manteaux Ballon ».

En 1959, l’atelier de la maison Givenchy s’installe au 3 avenue George-V à Paris, en face de celui de Balenciaga. La même année, Givenchy et Balenciaga annoncent que leurs collections respectives seront révélées à la presse un mois après leur présentation aux acheteurs, afin de limiter son dictat et éviter les copies.

Années 1970 : une maison en pleine expansion[modifier | modifier le code]

En 1969, Hubert de Givenchy lance sa ligne de mode masculine « Gentleman Givenchy ». La boutique sera inaugurée en novembre sur l’avenue George-V3. Hubert de Givenchy introduit par la suite la robe-short.

Sur les conseils de Cristóbal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy développe les licences principalement dans les années 1970 pour assurer la pérennité du cœur de la maison. En 1971, il crée une collection aux manteaux brodés hommage aux peintres Georges Braque et Joan Miró.

Durant cette période, la maison Givenchy diversifie ses activités : lancement de souliers, bijoux, cravates, linge de table, tissus d’ameublement, kimonos. Passionné de décoration, Hubert de Givenchy est mandaté pour le design intérieur de plusieurs hôtels Hilton à travers le monde, ainsi que d’une voiture (la Ford Mark)5.

En 1976, Givenchy Inc. (bureaux et showrooms) à New York, sur la Cinquième Avenue voit le jour.

Années 1980 et 90: l’ère LVMH[modifier | modifier le code]

En 1982, une rétrospective présidée par Audrey Hepburn est organisée au Fashion Institute of Technology6 de New York pour célébrer les 30 ans de la Maison de Couture.

En 1988, la marque Givenchy rejoint LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton7. Quelques années après, une grande rétrospective célèbre en 1991 au Palais Galliera les 40 ans de la Maison. Hubert de Givenchy se retire en 1995. Il sera succédé par les jeunes créateurs britanniques John GallianoAlexander McQueen puis Julien MacDonald. De décembre 2003 à fin 2006, le tailleur britannique Ozwald Boateng est nommé directeur de la création de Givenchy Homme.

Riccardo Tisci : la prolongation d’un patrimoine[modifier | modifier le code]

En mars 2005, nommé par Givenchy, le créateur italien Riccardo Tisci, devient directeur artistique de Givenchy Femme à 31 ans. Il est responsable des collections de haute couture, prêt-à-porter et accessoires Femme.

Riccardo Tisci a conservé l’élégance aristocratique et les lignes architecturales de la maison en y insufflant ses propres influences. Détournant les codes de la Maison, Riccardo Tisci y ajoute romantisme sombre et sensualité8. Prolongeant la palette chromatique de la maison, couleurs vives, tels que le baby blue et le rouge sang, métal, imprimés animaliers ou floraux, il trace une silhouette épurée, structurée et graphique.

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